A broken daughters toy is what it took to get Paul Close to realise a lifetime ambition of driving back through his native Africa in the hope of fetching a new one.
What followed was 16 years of riding, over three stages and countless photos later. Paul took time out of his busy schedule to answer a few questions about his amazing journey and project.
The project is called The Snakebox Odyssey
How did the idea for the Snakebox Odyssey come about?
Having been born in Zambia and (at the time) living in South Africa – I always dreamed of doing a full trans-Africa overland trip. I met an English guy who did it solo in the late 80′s, using a very difficult route. I was inspired by his story and route and always kept it in the back of my mind. I then bought a race-modified BMW off-road bike which I raced (rather unsuccessfully) for a couple of years and then something amazing happened: Mandela was released – which suddenly opened many of the borders to the north.
So in 1991 I planned a Christmas holiday run with the BMW that would take myself and friend Tony Beecher from SA up to the Equator in Kenya and back – 10,000 kilometers in a month. As a memento of the journey I bought a carved soapstone ‘snakebox’. This is an East-African toy, resembling a jack-in-the-box, contains a toy snake that comes out of the box to nip your finger as you slide the lid open – amusing and very small – perfect for a bike trip where space is extremely limited.
Many years later, and living in the UK, my young daughter managed to break the snakebox – so it seemed there was nothing else for it: I will ride across Africa and get another one! So, again Tony and I would ride together, this time from the UK with the plan of reaching the same spot on the Equator, but this time from the North, thereby completing our overland quest.
I gave much thought as to what I could do photographically and came up with the ‘white sheet’ idea as it would effectively spotlight the individual within the local environment, without the need for any lighting. The final part of the equation came to me as we waited for the last of our visas in a café near the Mali Embassy in Paris – I would ask each person the same question: ‘Is there one thing that could make your life better?’.
And that’s it.
The Snakebox Odyssey, why that name?
Sort of explained above, however the original idea was for ‘Snakebox Diaries’ – but too close the ‘Motorcycle Diaries’, however during a photoshoot at a cinema in London, the lady who was the manager suggested ‘odyssey’ – I have to thank her for the idea (here) as I’ve never been able to trace her again.
When did you start the project and how long did it take to complete?
The total Africa-overland took 16 years in three stages – first the original Kenya trip (10,000 kms); then UK to Lisala in the Congo (16,000kms) where we abandoned after Tony had a catastrophic accident; and finally my solo trip from Lisala to the ‘end point’ at the Eqator in Kenya (2,500 kms)
What were the logistical challenges faced during this project?Nothing to do with photography! The challenges faced were all to do with moving with a vehicle through countless border posts and roadblocks and the organising of all the paperwork. It takes about 18 months from initial idea to actual departure date for a major Africa-overland trip.
Everything is always possible, your best allies are without doubt patience and a smile. Camera choice was easy – as there is no space: 1 body and 1 lens (and a point’n'shoot in your pocket).
You’ve met some amazing characters along the way, which ones stand out the most and why?
To single out any individuals would be unfair as there is not one person who stands above any of the others. Every person I asked to be in my photographs said ‘Yes’ and not one of them asked for payment for having their picture taken. I could talk for half an hour on each and every individual and they were all interesting, engaging, kind – and often very funny – and I found the entire experience quite humbling. Particularly the images from the Congo have much depth for me as I covered over three-quarters of the (Democratic Republic of the) Congo alone and the hospitality shown to me was staggering. This is not what the media would have you believe of the Congo.
Is the project being shown anywhere?Exhibition has shown for six weeks at the University of Winchester over the summer, next is hopefully a venue in Bournemouth and then planning to take it to London.
What’s your photographic background?
(Ambiguous question – two answers!)
1. Started by doing my school magazine photography, here in the UK, when I was 15. Left school after my A-Levels in 1981 and immediately joined my family in Johannesburg (having just moved there from Zambia). Got my first job in a portrait studio within two weeks of leaving school and eight months later got a job on the newspapers. A very exciting time as a photographer, seeing out the dying days of apartheid and all it’s associated violence. Then joined Johannesburg’s leading corporate publication company, Bastion Graphics which was where I discovered a whole new and far more sophisticated level of photography. I went out on my own in 1994 doing commissioned corporate and advertising work and that is what I still do today.
2. A piece of the lightest spinnaker sailcloth – supported with the bendy poles from my tent. It rolls up to something smaller then a newspaper and wraps around the tent poles, taking up an insignificant amount of space on the bike.
Any advice for those wanting to undertake a project like this?It’s about having a simple idea that can be undertaken/deployed anywhere – and with the minimum amount of delay. Then going out there and executing the idea without wavering or getting distracted. I took a pro DSLR for these portraits and a little point’n'shoot for all my happy snaps. That way you know when you pick up the big camera you are doing the project and nothing else! None of these portraits took longer than five minutes to shoot. 2 minute setup, 1 minute shoot time, 2 minutes pack up. I can’t stand watching photographers fiddling around with their camera/lighting whilst the subject stands there getting bored – looks like incompetence to me…
Any new projects in the pipeline?
Getting the Snakebox project published – Richard Leakey has agreed to write a Foreword for me which I’m very happy about, however finding the publisher is proving tricky – Perseverance is my middle name! Next will probably be Australia, more for it’s amazing riding and ‘only one visa to get in’. After all the paperwork (and bribery) needed for Africa, I’m feeling the need to go somewhere easier.
I will be thinking long and hard about what sort of photographic idea I can take with me, but you can be assured it will be simple and easy to execute – with a strong end result.
Paul Close is an Advertising and Design Photographer based in the UK
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Hi Paul
Excellent job you have done and very thought provoking. Good luck with the school and let me know how they get on.
Regards
Stuart
I attended the event on its opening night and was very glad to have done so.What a marvelous trip to have done and documented in such a beautiful fashion.Fantastic images.
Bloody good show ol’ boy!
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Hi Paul
Excellent job you have done and very thought provoking. Good luck with the school and let me know how they get on.
Regards
Stuart